I found a kit on Ebay to fix this problem, but it was quite expensive. After a bit of research I found that this kit just contains some “special LEDs” – What could be so special with those LEDs?

I disassembled the display to analyze how the lighting works, and found 4 blue LEDs behind the LCD. Those LEDs are supposed to be responsible for the bad contrast of the display? First I couldn’t believe this, but as I took a closer look at the LCD it was quite obvious. – Without current the LCD is completely blue and gets transparent when displaying anything. So why are the backlight LEDs blue? The contrast MUST be bad, when illuminating a BLUE display with BLUE LEDs!!

So what I did:

I changed those 4 blue LEDs with 4 ultra bright white LEDs 3mm and it was amazing!!!

The display is now crystal clear and has a contrast even better when it left the factory. All the numbers/QRGs are displayed in pure white and the rest of the display comes in a warm blue. Great contrast!!
As I used LEDs with 6800mcd the display is much brighter than before. You can read it even in direct sunlight. Great improvement and modification!
The only thing this mod can’t optimize is that you have to recalibrate the contrast from time to time as the rig gets warmer/colder, but this comes from the LCD itself.

I hope I could help some OMs to fix their TM-V7 with this short story.

Let me know about your experiences!

vy 73, DL8NBD

Here are 2 pictures after the modification (unfortunately I missed to take pictures from before…):
It’s difficult to get this on picture, but in real it definitely looks nice!

Update/Tips:

Take care of the LCD while disassembling the display. The LCD has to be flipped over
and it is only mounted by the ribbon cable. If this is broken you end up with a brick.
Also be careful of scratches on the LCD - it is very weak.

The LEDs must be placed and soldered very carefully. Also the length of
the wires must be exactly like the old ones in order to fit exactly under
that plastic light guide. You should use the old LEDs as a master to
bend the wires correctly. But take care of the correct polarity,
this can be missed very easy.
If you need to change the contrast settings after the mod and the range
from 1 - 16 in the menu is not enough/proper you will find a small potentiometer
on the back of the display's circuit board (there is only one). Use this
to change the contrast to your needs. Just set the contrast to 8 in the menu
and then turn the potentiometer to set the best possible contrast.

If you have any further questions feel free to ask!

First this was a little confusing, but when you read this manual 3 times you’ll get it. So first you have to “build” the so-called “service-jig”. This is only short-circuiting pin 3 and 6 of the data-terminal in front of the transceiver. I used a small piece of wire that i bended around and putted in.

Next you have to press the “F-Key” and “TONE” simultaneously while powering on the transceiver. It needs an “ALL RESET” and after that you’re in the adjustment menu.

Jump to settings 4-1 for VHF low signal adjustment of the s-meter (for UHF see the service manual). According to the service manual you now need a signal generator to set these things up correctly. Unfortunately i don’t have a signal generator, so is tricked around a little. -> Unplug any antenna of the TM-V7 and use a handheld with very low output power with also no antenna attached. (I used a Yaesu VX-1R) Now hold the handheld about 1m off the TM-V7 and push the PTT. If you don’t see any s-meter lights on put the handheld a little closer to the antenna jack. If you now see some lights on, turn the ENC knob counterclockwise to reduce the settings of the s-meter threshold. (to increase – guess what )

At this point I was confused again – you don’t see any changes while turning the ENC knob – you have to turn it, and then press ENT to use these settings. (be careful, it will skip to the next step after pressing ENT – so you’re at 4-2 now! – Go back if you need to adjust more!)

Repeat this step for the VHF high-signal settings until you think the s-meter should do it’s job again. – I know this is not an accurate setup of the s-meter, but it might help some OMs to correct these settings for “home-use”. I had to repeat these steps a few times, until it was satisfying.

Let me know about your experience of adjusting some minor things like the s-meter of the TM-V7E.
Maybe you have some tips for me too.

best 73s – DL8NBD